Sweden 2013 - Back to my Roots in the Land of Liberal Utopia

Sweden 2013 - Back to my Roots in the Land of Liberal Utopia

 

Back to Sweden! This was a special, emotional trip for me. I lived in the north of Sweden in a city called Umeå as a 16 year old exchange student. The year forever changed my life. I was due for a return journey.

In case you didn't know...Sweden is a peaceful country in Scandinavia (northern Europe). The country is neutral and has admirably not been in a war since 1814. The size of the land is slightly larger than California and there are about 9.5 million inhabitants. The capital city of Stockholm has about 2 million people in the metro area. Sweden is renowned for having a very well balanced, equal society while still remaining economically competitive globally. The country has the 8^th highest per capita income in the world and has a very low Gini coefficient (meaning it has high income equality). Swedes pay high taxes but receive excellent benefits including highly subsidized healthcare and university education. Swedes speak their own language of Swedish and use the Swedish Krona. The cost of goods and services is much higher than in the US.  

Map of Sweden

Commentary: Sweden has built a prosperous and relatively egalitarian society but it faces challenges. The cold, dark climate drives many Swedes to other countries and results in a low population growth rate. Sweden has counter balanced this by allowing a significant number of immigrants and political refugees, which make up about 15% of the population. Immigration comes with side effects such as racism, a lack of upward mobility for non-natives, and a higher crime rate. This was evident in the Stockholm riots in 2013 that shocked the country. The world is changing fast and this will undoubtedly have an impact on the Swedish way of life. Can the Swedes maintain their high wages and generous social benefits when populations in the developing world are willing to work harder and longer for less pay? How will Sweden deal with an increasingly ageing, dysfunctional and debt ridden European Union? Albeit difficult, these are questions that Sweden is well positioned to answer going forward.

Gamla Stan in Stockholm, Sweden

Ok, back to the trip. This trip started in Stockholm where I met up with my American relatives from Colorado. They were coincidentally traveling to Sweden at the same exact time so we traveled together for 3 days! We toured Stockholm for a day. We went to the Vasa Museum, a must see! The Vasa is one of my favorite museums. The ship sunk quickly in 1628 and was resurrected in 1961. The wood ship is spectacular and the museum brings the time period to life with vivid descriptions and exhibits. The Vasa was a 64 gun war ship put together with the lower sections of all three masts and a new bowsprit. 30 bodies were found during the excavation. Intricate artistry was evident all over the ship.

Vasa Museum in Stockholm, Sweden

Then we drove down south to the city of Kalmar and saw Kalmar Castle (Slott). We had a fun time exploring the castle. It was built in the 12 century and experienced many wars between Sweden and Denmark. In 1397, when the Kalmar Union was formed - a union of Denmark, Norway and Sweden was organized by Queen Margaret I of Denmark.

Kalmar Castle in Kalmar, Sweden

The third day we were lucky to meet up with our Swedish relatives in rural Småland where my grandmother Marie Peterson MacDonald lived. Back to the roots! We found our way to Gullabo and Öjebamåla villages in Småland, Sweden!  We received a great tour. It was hard to believe that our roots went back so many generations to the 1300s. Our Swedish relatives were such nice hosts too! 

Meeting with Swedish Relatives

I went to Malmö and Helsingborg to visit friends and see the Skåne region of southern Sweden. Both cities were very nice and a day trip to Denmark happened spontaneously! We checked out the museum of modern art. There was a trippy Yoko Ono exhibit. The exhibit was interesting and far out. We also swung by Kronborg castle in Denmark, built in the 1420s. It is known as Elsinore in William Shakespeare's play Hamlet. 

In Denmark at the Museum of Modern Art

I spent a weekend in Stockholm and reconnected with my long lost host brother and his girl. They took me all over Stockholm including a boat tour of the scenic city which is scattered on islands and surrounded by water. We also cruised Gamla Stan (old town), and went to some cool restaurants, bars and clubs with friends. We went to Trägarden - a cool indoor/ outdoor club under a bridge in Stockholm with DJs in multiple rooms playing different electronic music. I was also fortunate to link up with old friends living in the area. They went well out of their way to meet up and reconnect. We also went to the posh area of Stockholm and the Swedes were as fashionable and attractive as their reputation.

Stockhom, Sweden - A City on Islands

The final leg of the trip put me on a short flight up north to Umeå (population 100,000 metro) in the Västerbotten region, not far from the Arctic Circle. My host family picked me up. They are like family to me and I am very grateful for the year that they put up with me when I was a 16 teenager! The experience of reconnecting with the family was surreal, like a dream...The parents and the three guys (who were 8, 6 and 4 and now in their 20s) hosted me for a fantastic week. We caught up, ate and drank Swedish style, and got reacquainted. 

Reunited with my Swedish Host Family from when I was an Exchange Student

I enjoyed seeing the city from my memories - downtown, the museum, birch trees, endless forests, bike paths, and red and yellow painted houses. The regional museum houses some of the oldest skis in the world, dating back thousands of years! I was very happy to see the Näslunds’ extended family and close friends that I knew as a youth. 

In Downtown Umeå, Sweden

I also got a cool brewery tour from a neighbor. He taught us a lot and we tasted some excellent U&Me beer. Speaking of beer, I had a blast hanging with some of my best buds from the exchange year. We played on a traveling basketball team but we really went through so many intense life experiences together. Great to see those guys! 

U&Me Beer at the Brewery in Umeå, Sweden

Finally the trip culminated with the life celebration that is Midsommer in Sweden! We lucked out with sunny weather. What a day! Eating, drinking (lots), singing, music, soccer, golf, going to the beach, talking, laughing, reuniting with friends, drinking, games, campfire sessions, and a plunge into the ocean at 3am! It was difficult to sleet with 24 hour daylight! Yes, no darkness for a week! Thank you so much for your hospitality Sweden! 

Midsommar near Umeå, Sweden

Tack så mycket Sverige! Det var mycket spännande och emotionell för mig att kom tillbaka och helsa på landet, språket, och mest viktigaste - vänner och familj. Du är ett generöst folk och jag är lyckligt att känna igen dig. Jag kommer tillbaka, självklart. Ja ja men! 

Trip to Thailand and Cambodia 2012-13

Thailand – The World’s Playground in Southeast Asia

Southeast Asia called me back to it following a Vietnam trip two years earlier. The venture spanned over two weeks. It covered Bangkok, Koh Samui, and Koh Phagnan in Thailand and Siem Reap, Angkor Wat, and Tonle Sap Lake in Cambodia. I traveled with a friend from work.

The adventure began in Thailand. This Southeast Asian nation formally known as “Siam” has a population of about 67 million. The country is a hot and tropical tourist mecca. The Thai people are very welcoming, open and appeasing. Temples, beaches, great food, etcetera, make Thailand a fantastic vacation destination. It is not a surprise that tourists flock there in droves.

The tour kicked off in Bangkok at the magnificent Grand Palace. It was built starting in 1782. The official residence of the King of Thailand contains the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, or Wat Phra Kaew. It is said to be  the protector of the country. The large grounds of the Grand Palace have spectacular statues, architecture, buildings, courtyards, lawns, halls and gardens.

 Grand Palace Statue in Bangkok, Thailand

The Grand Palace and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha were built after King Rama I took the throne as the founder of the Chakri Dynasty in 1782. It has undergone several repairs and renovations. The Grand Palace consists of several buildings with various styles of architecture. Wat Phra Kaeo is known as the most beautiful and important Buddhist temple in Thailand.

Near the Grand Palace is Wat Pho, which houses the gigantic Reclining Buddha. The statue barely fits in the building and stretches 46 meters long and 15 meters high. The materials consist of glass mosaics and mother of pearl. Designs of the feet illustrate 108 auspicious symbols of the Buddha such as flowers and tigers. The temple of Wat Pho is also known as the birthplace of traditional Thai massage.

The Reclining Buddha at Wat Pho in Bangkok, Thailand

Wat Pho was named after a monastery in India where Buddha is thought to have resided. The site was a center for traditional Thai medicine and statues were created showing yoga positions before the temple's founding.

After taking a ferry across the Chao Phraya River, we entered Wat Arun, or "Temple of the Dawn". It was given this name due to how the first light of the morning reflects off the surface of the temple with a brilliant iridescence. The stairs up to the top were dangerously steep. 

Wat Arun Temple in Bangkok, Thailand

Wat Arun was built in the 17th century. It has brilliantly designed prangs (a kind of pagoda) which have millions of pieces of Chinese porcelain.

We spent several days seeing the sights of Bangkok. The big city of Bangkok, metro population of 12 million, is undoubtedly one of the major hubs and capitals in Southeast Asia. Industry, business, and even traffic seemed to flow surprisingly smoothly. One could grab an inexpensive but good meal on the street or splurge at a nice area in a Western mall.

We explored the backpacker area near Khaosan Road in Bangkok. It was always chaotic, loud and entertaining. Music blared and street vendors solicited me to buy something or enter a club. One can find all kinds of odd things for sale including scorpions on a stick. Otherwise the area offered a slew of fun restaurants, bars and shops.

 Thai Food on Khaosan Road, Bangkok, Thailand 

I was fortunate to have an authentic Thai lunch and then an awesome city tour from my Thai friend. He runs Thai plastics company and was a close classmate from business school years ago. I also had the luck of meeting up with a Belgian friend that I met in Salvador, Brazil during Carnival in 2003! She is spending the year in Asia as a traveler and volunteer.

The other part of the trip in Thailand was in the islands of Koh Samui and Koh Pha-Ngan in the south. The madness of Koh Pha-Ngan lived up to the hype with full moon events, scenic beaches and cool pool parties. 

 

 Koh Samui Beach in Southern Thailand

Koh Samui offered amazing beaches and seemingly unlimited places to lounge and indulge. Nights were busy and happening on the main road in Chaweng, a hot spot in Samui. Bars, clubs, shops, restaurants, and massage houses line the street for miles. Before New Year’s Eve we experienced a full force tropical storm - 4 hours of intense rain, lightning and thunder! Luckily it cleared up. Samui came to life with a diverse, larger than life New Year’s crowd, a fireworks display on the beach, and beats bumping from the DJ booth.

Koh Samui Beach on New Year's

Cambodia – Overwhelming Ruins in a Country Recovering from its Past

We hopped on a flight to adjacent Cambodia. We spent a couple of days exploring the temples and ruins of Angkor and a couple of days enjoying the tourist haven that is Siem Reap. The final day included a tour of a floating village on the lake and river system of Tonle Sap, a designated UNESCO biosphere. 

The Old Market in Siem Reap, Cambodia

Cambodia, a Buddhist country of about 15 million people, is one of the poorest countries on the planet. Yet the people seem friendly and optimistic despite Cambodia's war ravaged past that includes the Khmer Rouge genocide in the 70s, a civil war, and a war with Vietnam. Peace and strong economic growth gives the country some promise. Angkor Wat, meaning Temple City, and the surrounding temples, are truly massive and magnificent.

Bayon Face Temples at Angkor in Cambodia

Inside the gate was Angkor Thom, the one-time capital of the Khmer empire that was created in the late 12th century by King Jayavarman VII. Within the grounds of Angkor Thom is Bayon, a labyrinth of 216 peaceful and massive stone faces carved into many of the towers. The stunning faces surround you as you explore the ruins. Coming from the litigious West, it is hard to believe that one can explore the ruins so freely in Cambodia and in some developing nations in general. There is barely any security or signage preventing one from getting about as close as you want.

Ta Prohm, from “Lora Croft: Tomb Raider” fame, is a unique set of ruins that was abandoned and later intertwined with the jungle. A UNESCO World Heritage site, Ta Prohm is enveloped by colossal sprung, silk cotton, thitpok, strangler fig and gold apple trees, and the tentacles of their roots. The site is one of the most striking, outlandish combinations of natural vegetation and man-made ruins on the planet.

 

Ta Prohm Jungle Temples at Angkor

Angkor Wat is the main attraction of the temples. It is the largest Hindu temple complex and the biggest religious monument in the world. It was built by King Suryavarman VII in the early 12th century and was dedicated to Vishnu, a supreme Hindu God. The photo below shows Angkor Wat at dawn (6-7am). Crowds of tourists from all over the planet positioned for a good shot of the scene.

Angor Wat at Dawn in Cambodia

Historically, a French explorer found the ruins in the mid-1800s deep in the jungle. The building material of Angkor was made of sandstone blocks and the architecture uniquely displays curved towers shaped like lotus buds. Angkor Wat, or "Temple City", is a symbol of Cambodia and is on the national flag. The Angkor ruins put Cambodia on the map and are a huge source of tourism dollars.

Angkor Wat Temple

The ruins are also surrounded by an outer wall and moat. The site is a gargantuan series of temples spread out over a vast area. The fact that it was constructed with human and elephant labor in the 1100s is mind-boggling.

Banteay Srei, built in the 10 century, is a temple dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva. The red sandstone carvings are the most detailed and intricate of all the Angkor temples.

 Banteay Srei Intricate Carvings at Angkor

Three decades of war left Cambodia littered with dangerous mines. The devastating mines resulted in more than 40,000 amputees. Aki Ra, a former child soldier, bravely deactivated thousands of mines and started the museum and orphanage.

Aki Ra Deactivating a Mine. Photo from the Cambodian Landmine Museum.

The museum housed a collection of mines and other weapons found in the fields of Cambodia. Watch "The Killing Fields" film for more Cambodian war history. The gripping drama captured the terror of the time.

The next day we took a Tuk-Tuk taxi to the lake-river system and floating villages of Tonle Sap. The people there come from Cambodia, Vietnam and China and live together despite the extreme fluctuations and oscillations of the water levels throughout the year. The people have a tough life that involves moving frequently and mainly living off of the fish.

Tour Guide at Tonle Sap Lake, Cambodia

Our tour guide grew up in the floating village and gave a great tour and explanation of the Tonle Sap Lake peoples and culture. He was a child soldier and experienced the life or death reality of war first hand.

 

The tour included seeing a floating school with kids of different age groups and backgrounds. One could donate rice or water to the children.

 Girl at School in the Floating Village of Tonle Sap Lake, Cambodia

On the narrow road back to Siem Reap we could see men working the rice fields. Rice is one of the main products and exports of the country. Many Cambodians still work in rice production. We stopped to see a house in a basic village outside of Siem Reap. Many homes were simply wooden shacks on stilts. Despite this poverty people seemed to be able to live off of the abundant food provided by nature.

Back in Siem Reap we experienced a “fish massage” whereby fish nibbled on our feet and ate the dead skin. The sensation was extremely ticklish! I could only take about 10 seconds of it at a time. Siem Reap is alive all the time and especially at night. Pub Street is loaded with bars, restaurants and tourists from all over the world. Temple Bar and Restaurant provides an excellent performance of traditional Khmer music and dancing.

Thailand and Cambodia are welcoming countries with a lot to offer. The trip was well-rounded with a mix of city life, history, temples, beaches, culture and relaxation. Thank you Southeast Asia!